Choosing the model by comparing features
- set a budget range up to the maximum you can afford, set aside about $200-$500 for accessories
- Ken Rockwell have a few common Nikon/Canon models to compare, but do note that many feel that his comparison may be inadequate with respect to the strength in Canon with which he is trying to catch up with. This link is old, so please read up elsewhere on newer models.
There are many features, but these are the one that i think is most critical for newbies
Hardware handling
It seems that only the weight is a quantifiable. Mount compatibility and lens system may be read, although not quantifiable. The other three require usage and possibly prolonged usage in order to understand what is good and what not.
Weight
Manufacturer like to make the weight of their camera bodies sounds light, especially to the upgrading community who prefers something light. As such it is usually quoted without batteries and caps, and of cos without lens. Lighter models currently weigh about 400 to 700gm and the intermediate models weigh about 700-1000gm, and those with vertical grips is about 1.2kg. Starting with a lighter body will allow you to think if you would want to upgrade for more features and take more weight. On the other hand, once you got used to the features on the heavier body, you may find it difficult to let go of them in order to get a lighter body.
Mount compatibility
Each brand's bodies take their own brand's lens. Exception include Fujifilm bodies taking Nikon F-mount and the 4/3 systems (Olympus and Panasonic) sharing lens. There are also 3rd party lenses, such as Tamron, Tokina and Sigma, which provide alternatives mainly to the Nikon and Canon giants. Mount compatibility is an issue mainly regarding compatibility of older lenses, in regards to physical attachment, ability of aperture control from body, ability of autofocusing and ability of metering. This is a big topic that is quite beyond me, but as far as i know, nikon D40 and D40x does not take electronic lens without motor, hence ruling out good lens like nikkor 50mm f/1.8 AF-(non S) D and other non-motor 3rd party electronic lens. This has become a major concern to the otherwise great review of Nikon D40. Some of my film user friends choose pentax with a M42 adapter. Film users might consider that. For further information on mount compatibility within the same system, you may need to get online resource or printed pamplet. I got a copy from Nikon service centre on their lenses, and find it so much easier to read and decide.
Lens system
Invariably tied to mount variability, this is another important consideration especially when one is going to get dedicated on the system and get a set of lens. Canon and Nikon are big players as they have a big family of lens and 3rd party support, including cheaper alternatives. Some of the experienced users may start comparing the optical quality of the lens between the different brands, but that is usually not the most important factor to the newbies.
Viewfinder layout, size & brightness
Viewfinder layout and brightness is a very important but often not quantified. Even the size is often not mentioned. Again manufacturer boasts about the LCD size, but hardly talks about viewfinder size - a more important factor in my concern. The clarity, brightness, simplicity and comprehensivenss of the information on the viewfinder is of utmost importance, because this is where you judge your composition much much more effectively than on the LCD postview. I've just saw how bright and large is my friend's nikon D200 & D80. i think i know what i'm missing out. On the contrary, accumulated exposure can only be seen on the LCD postview, but between the two, i still think the viewfinder is more important as it determines the capture, while LCD postview assists in review and the second shot. If you have no 2nd chance to shoot, it is needless to say why the viewfinder is more important than the LCD postview.
Ergonomics
The size need to be big enough for you to hold comfortably (but not too big) and buttons need to be ideally spaced to fit the fingers spaced out. This require you to know which button to press and try it out at the shop, go with a friend to show you how. So far most reviewers have said that Nikon bodies have done well for such purposes, but I myself have only used a single Nikon body and cannot really give any light except for reproduction of what is printed usually. This is quite a subjective factor, and since it is your own hand and you are eventually going to be the only person to use the camera, I feel that one can ignore what others say about ergonomics and just try it out yourself because there is no guarantee that if it works for 99% of users, it will work for you.
Buttons layout
More important than overall form, yet another subjective factor. In general, serious users would prefer more buttons than less. Why? Doesn't that make it more cluttered and confusing for use? Probably not. You will still use some of the more common buttons but not all when you start. As you start to know more functions, you will realise that those buttons you need to assess quickly may require combination of pressing two buttons, or need to go through the LCD menu, which means you need to take your eye off the viewfinder and than onto the LCD and back to the viewfinder. This is when you want them all outside. Next important point is how well all these buttons are spaced, whether it is intuitive to press there, the texture of the buttons to allow good dexturity but not so bad as to cause skin abrasions on prolonged use, and finally buttons are large enough and not too close to the next button to avoid squeezing the wrong button.
Software handling
- ISO: the wider the range, the better. one with ISO as low as 100 would be good.
- noise level at higher ISO: try to have one that gives decent results at about ISO800 and ISO1600
- type of sensor: the sigma foveon sensor and the fuji sensor are the special ones, CMOS sensors are good, CCD sensors are ok.
- megapixel: determines the size of printout you can go for with decent results
- spot metering: required to help you with difficult lighting condition
- memory slot: do take note that older camera may not take the newer formats, e.g. the 4GB high capacity SD cards.
- burst mode: important only if you shoot events that moves. otherwise stick with what you have.
Posted in:
carrying case,
compact,
digital photography,
dlsr,
filter,
lens,
macro lens,
photo,
slr camera,
tripod,
wide lens,
zoom
on
Sunday, April 27, 2008
at
at
12:49 PM